THE near DEATH AND RE BIRTH
OF A
1979 HUNTER 37 CHERUBINI CUTTER

HUNTER 37 CUTTER
Cockpit Work
This page was last updated: June 24, 2013

Cockpit is almost ready. Just missing the new GPS. I decided to wait till the last minute to purchase it. It seems that new ones are released every day, so it will be obsolete in no time.

The EDSON pedestal was stripped and painted with two part white epoxy paint. (same as the mast). A new compass was installed. Throttle handle repainted red and steering brake checked. Cables lubed and new wiring installed.
A new, two bend, pedestal guard replaced the old smaller one. This new one allows for 2 NAVPODS to be installed along with the folding table.


Found the table in 6 pieces. Also the main leaf was splitting for water damage. I stripped the old varnish and re glued and clamped all the parts with waterproof epoxy glue. After a couple of days under the clamps, the table was flat again. After lots of sanding, staining and sealing, 2 coats of clear epoxy were brushed overall, with special attention to the edges.  Incorporated a Wind Rose on the table under the varnish layers.
The bracket was broken so I had to make a removable leg to fit under it. Although I made a pedestal cover out of sumbrella, I usually slip a 50 gallon 3 mill garbage liner over it when it is not being used and then the cover over it.
Table is wet with water beads on top.

I had to do something about these lockers. They have a small recess in the middle of the lid and I could never find it when I was ready to lift it open. I used some mahogany and routed an edge to it so that when installed, I could lift the lid open without having to search for the hand opening.

The best addition to the cockpit was this SSI shower. I ran Pex to the stern when re plumbing the boat. Now I have hot and cold water to shower with.

Also installed a water inlet with a one way valve. Now I can use the dock water pressure when in the slip.

I installed new springs on the lids, however they got to go. They release when slightly touched,  I have the bumps on my head to prove it. When I know I will be working in the locker for a while, I have a piece of broom handle that I use to make sure I dont loose any fingers. They will release if you look at them wrong and chop whatever is in the way.
I am exploring the way to replace all four with gas struts. Just a matter of figuring the lenght and lift.

Replaced the old compass with a new Voyager model. pricey but did fit the Edson binnacle properly. Has a green LED for night sailing.

Made a cover to protect the RAM vhf radio mike and a 12v plug for a night floodlight. The plastic shield is removable. I also made a sunbrella cover to protect the case. Of course, the mike is stored below when not in use
New 25ft dock lines
MAX keeping guard

Tiller Work
I know that Hunters have a reputation for being crappy boats. And I am the first one to defend them, however this factory tiller stop system is totally crap from day one. I thought it was a Previous Owner mod but I have found several other 37 with the same system.  They just used a 2x4 with 2 blocks screwed on as tiller stops. Imagine how long that would last . The P.O. had already replaced the short blocks several time just by judging the number of screw holes on the 2x4. One was split through and ready to commit suicide.
Here is my solution. A nice piece of 2x2 aluminum square tube with the proper wall thickness. Welded two 2x2 blocks to act as stops. Bolted the whole thing and it works like a charm. Better yet, I know it is done right.
Lazzarette Work
All the scupper drain hoses were replaced and double banded. Hand bilge pump. a whale model 40 was rebuilt and received new hoses also.
Installed two anchoring points in the cockpit for the harnesses.
Installed two new waterproof speakers. The power panel where the stereo is situated has 2 push button switches. They control the speakers in the cockpit and in the salon. The red covers are rubber covers that came as a lid on a Pyrex glass bowl. They fit perfectly the 6" speakers. I leave them covered unless they are being used. Yeah, imagine me walking down the Walmart aisle measuring rubber lids. Hey even a blind squirel finds a nut once in a while.
I made new lazzarette plywood floors. The originals were cut short, and bent, so they would fall in. Eased all the edges with the router and drill a hole in the middle to pull them up. They received 4 coats of white oil paint.
By the way, we work on basketball gms and the 5 gallons black cans represent the Poly used to refinish a gym.
I started my idea by using 3/4 electrical conduit, also called EMT tubing. Cheap and easy to bend. Comes in 10 ft sections.Max is checking out the measurementsIn the business park my business is located, my neighbour is a metal fabrication shop. I got one of the guys to bend my tubing during his lunch hour. I used 1 1/4 bright anodized aluminum pipe. Same as used on ski boats and tuna towers. He makes accessories for golf carts with it. After all we 130 courses in Myrtle Beach.Pipes are bent but too big. I had to rework them.Final davits ready to weld
Davits on the table ready for welding. I cut all the joints and had everything ready for the welder.
They laid around the shop for a couple of weeks since they were very busy and I hated to ask for a favor on such a small job. Finally on a Friday, I brought 4 large pizzas and a 12 pack of cold adult beverage and presto. Two guys jumped on it and it was done in 30 minutes.
I love it when a plan comes together.!
Davits installed on the cockpit. I decided to install them inboard in order to have a good socket to attach them to the coaming. I also used 1" starboard to make an outboard carrier. I had a stainless steel cap made for it. Total cost about 45.00 plus my time. I just could not pay 200 for the edson one. Purchased a 3 1/2hp Mercury at 35# with 0 hours from a guy on craigs list.  I also purchased a 9hp for faster transportation, however the small outboard will be much easier to lift on board than a 9hp at 90#. I did make a engine lift on my Radar pole. I can lift my outboard with a block and tackle from the zodiac to the rail in 4 pulls.
Working on my idea with emt conduit and a pipe bender
The tabs are welded on the davits to receive the stringers that will hold the two davits square and also support the solar panels. I purchased two 80 watt units for a total of 160 watts to charge the house batteries. You can see the tabs for the outboard crane to slip on the radar pole. The other pole hold the wind generator. A 300 watt AC unit to charge  the starter battery. The davits will also get a set of cleats and line holders to secure the lifting lines.
DAVITS
On the table being fittedCooling offInstalled on the cockpitFitting the davits
STERN LADDER
I also had to address the problem caused by the two pipes that rest against the hull. (standoffs??). They had a rotten piece of rubber that let the pipe dig into the hull. I purchased two rubber plugs that lasted about 6 months also. I decided something more permanent had to happen. I used a 1" pipe fitting, secured to the standoff with an allen screw. Then I cut two round plugs with a hole saw out of 1" teak (the leg that held the nav table before I cut it off shorter) and used a belt sander to fit them to the hull curvature. Now, I have a ladder that no longer digs into the hull every time it goes down.
I could not find a Navpod the way I wanted it and a big one with a blank face was stupidly expensive (over 400 bucks). I got the largest model with the wrong cut out on Ebay for 100 bucks. I had 1/4" starboard and made a new face for it. Routed the edge and used 8 screws to install it.  Sealed with 3m 4000 and then I made my own cutouts for my Radar and GPS.
Installed two anchoring points in the cockpit for the harnesses. Jack lines and tethers for harnesses.
The original ladder was bent when I purchased the boat. After reworking it and adding extra tubbing sleeves to reinforce several weak points. I also made several teak steps to attach to each rung. Just bolting through the pipe a step with two screws would not be good enought. I cut and welded a stainless plate per step. I punched holes to receive the screws from below.
OUTBOARD MOTOR MOUNT
l loved the EDSON outboard motor mount but at  $200 a bit pricey. I had some 1" kingboard and made my own. I made a stainless cover for the top part and had it welded. Used a 1" paddle bit to bore the hole for the rail. Routed the edge of the kingboard and voila, a custom made motor rail holder. Total cost 50 box
BULKHEAD REPAIRS
The two original instruments were a depth and speed round units along with a cigarette lighter. After removing them I made a 1/4" starboard plate with eased edges on the router. Caulk and screws did the job. One way to cover two huge holes. Did the same thing on the inside as the instruments protruded into the rear cabin
MONDAY JUNE 10th
Made two 1/4 aluminum plates to install cable clamps on the davits.   I had a cleat to secure the line but I felt a clamp would help in holding the dinghy as it came up and I would not have to hold and tie down each line after several feet of hoisting. This way, I can let the line clamp hold the dinghy as I change sides .
Friday, May 24, 2013 

New aft cabin port.

I just received a new port for the aft cabin. It was the last port that was not changed and it had a broken dog so under heavy rain, it would drip right over the rear cushion. Not cool. It is complete with new frame, lenses, gasket and screen. Just have to remove the old one and bed it in the new one.
Ports should be O.K. for a while now. Replaced all the  large ports and  lenses in 2011, all the small port lenses in 2012 and this is the last one.  I am running out of boat to work on !!!












New port is different than the original one. The spigot  (area that protrudes from the wall) is 2 3/8 while the original was 1 7/8. No big deal but a perfect ankle catcher. I can see someone walking by barefoot and clipping their ankle on this port. So , checked the order and sizes and it,s the only one made in that size so out when the table saw and Voila! a new 1 7/8 spigot custom made. A little sanding will made it all smooth. I have a tube of 3M 4000 to bed the new port. Also, the original had screws all the way through. The new one has a smooth trim ring. I could drill the trim ring for the screws but I like the smooth look. We secured the port, ran the screws and bedded the trim ring with 3m 4000.
The 4000 allows me to remove the port in the future. Should I have used the 5200 (the Devil's Caulk) It would never come back out without a hammer and chisel.  ;-)
New port VS old portThe original was secured with srews all the way throughThe spigot on the new one is 1/2" longer. It does stick out too much in my opinion.Modified the new port to the correct dimensions. Alittle sanding and good as new